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  • Overview

    This small state, halfway down India's west coast, was a Portuguese colony until 1961, which goes some way to explaining the alternative atmosphere found in the region. Cut off from British India by a wall of mountains and vast plains, Goa relied on trade with a declining Portuguese Empire. However, what was lost in terms of British trade was more than made up for in terms of Portuguese attitude. To this day, Goa retains a distinctly laid-back and relaxed feel.

    Goa was 'discovered' by travellers in the late 1960s, when many were searching for somewhere unique and off the beaten tourist track. Goa quickly became a kind of hippie paradise, where holidaying meant simply hanging out and partying on the beach (particularly during full moon). The state quickly grew a reputation for its hedonism and liberal attitude, not to mention its hot sun, that sets in splendour every evening over the Arabian Sea. In recent years, though it still hosts epic trance music festivals (such as Sunburn), the authorities of Goa have tried to discourage hippies and budget backpackers from swamping the area, angling rather for clientele with fatter wallets, with the result that Goa is slowly losing its reputation as India's 'party central'.

    With a quick rail link to Mumbai and charter flights from the UK, thousands of tourists flock here each winter to relax and enjoy the famous Goan cuisine, which largely consists of seafood prepared in exotic Indian spices. Many hotels and resorts have popped up over the last few years to cater for this ever-popular destination, but with more than 25 miles (40km) of beautiful sandy beaches, there is still plenty of tranquillity to be found.

    Anjuna Flea Market

    Once just a backpacker and hippie hangout selling kaftans and chillums, the Anjuna Flea Market is now more commercial, with a broad range of high-quality goods on sale. Traders from all over India come to sell their wares: Lamani women from Karnataka, dressed in their traditional garb, sell colourful, elaborately woven clothes; Kashmiri stalls display silver and papier-mâché boxes; and Tibetans preside over orderly rows of sundry Himalayan curios. Visitors are expected to bargain but the stall owners tend to be friendly and less pushy than in some other markets.

    Spices at the Anjuna Flea Market Spices at the Anjuna Flea Market sara marlowe

    This most sedate of state capitals has plenty to offer tourists, and should rightly have a day or two devoted to it on any Indian travel itinerary. Situated on the southern banks of the Mandovi River, Panaji only became the capital of Goa in 1843, after the harbour at Old Goa silted up and disease had driven its inhabitants out. The best way to explore the town is on foot, wandering around the old cobbled alleyways, colonial villas, red-roofed houses, taverns and cafes, all of which has the look and feel of a small Portuguese town.

    Church of the Immaculate Conception Church of the Immaculate Conception Olof Werngren
    Old Goa

    Old Goa was the state's capital city until 1843, when it was moved down river to Panaji. Once a byword for splendour, with a population of several hundred thousand, Old Goa was virtually abandoned from the 17th century, as the river silted up and a series of malaria and cholera epidemics drove out the inhabitants. It takes some imagination to picture the once-great capital as it used to be. The maze of twisting streets, piazzas and grand Portuguese villas have long gone. All that remains are a score of extraordinarily grandiose churches and convents. Old Goa has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and today is the state's main cultural attraction.

    Chapel of St. Cajetan Chapel of St. Cajetan Hemant192
    Goa Beaches

    Goa has some amazing beaches, and draws a steady stream of local and international tourists. In the north, Anjuna Beach once played host to hordes of hippies, but is now home to a number of trendy beach bars as well as the famous Wednesday Market. The new hippie haven, Arambol beach, is also good for dolphin viewing and paragliding. With its white-sand beaches, In the south, Agonda is a quiet stretch of beach with a few souvenir stalls and restaurants, while Benaulim Beach, south of Colva, is known for its fishing and laid-back atmosphere. The shady palm trees and soft sands of Palolem Beach, also known as Paradise Beach, are backpacker territory.

    Mandrem Beach Mandrem Beach Paul Mannix
    Dudhsagar Waterfall

    A great outing in Goa is a trip to the Dudhsagar Waterfall, which is one of the most popular natural attractions in the area. The falls are located in a tropical jungle near the Goa-Karnataka border, and are surrounded by a network of gently flowing streams and pools. Swimming, hiking and picnicking are popular pastimes at the falls and the deep pool beneath the falls is a favourite nature spot. The waterfalls are among the 100 highest in the world, and visitors who take the difficult climb to the top will be rewarded with breathtaking views of the Western Ghats' wooded mountains.

    Dudhsagar Waterfall Dudhsagar Waterfall wonker
    Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary

    The Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary is home to around 400 species of birds, both local and migratory. Here visitors can expect to see kingfishers, pintails, coots and egrets, as well as a few crocodiles, jackals and foxes inhabiting the mangroves. Although this is one of the smallest bird sanctuaries in Goa, it is among the most famous in India. It is important to go at the right time of year, with the best time to see the migratory birds being after the monsoon season, from October to March. Bird and animal sightings are likely to be better early in the morning.

    Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary Elroy Serrao

    Famed as a hippie hangout since the 70s, the main source of Anjuna's enduring popularity as a holiday destination is its superb beach. Fringed by palm trees, the curve of soft white sand conforms more closely to the archetypal vision of paradise than any other beach on the north coast. The quieter southern end is protected by rocky outcrops, while to the north the beach widens and stretches for almost a mile past groups of bars, cafés and handicraft stalls. Revellers from the UK and all over India come to Anjuna on holiday, lured by the club scene and the promise of big beach parties (particularly over Christmas and New Year).

    Anjuna Beach Anjuna Beach Jo N
    Baga Beach

    The Baga Beach holiday resort is a few miles south of Anjuna, and is basically an extension of Calangute. Lying in the lee of a rocky, wooded headland, the only difference between this far northern end of the beach and its more congested centre is that the scenery here is marginally more varied and picturesque, and the beach less crowded. It is a good swimming beach but there are no promising breaks for surfers. However, there are lots of other watersports on offer. Hawkers can be an irritation but no more than on most other popular stretches of sand in Goa; a firm 'no' usually does the trick.

    Baga Beach Baga Beach Extempore
    Calangute Beach

    Once a peaceful fishing village and then a haven for hedonistic hippies, Calangute is now Goa's busiest and most commercialised holiday resort, a 45-minute bus ride north of the capital, Panaji. The road from the town to the beach is lined with Kashmiri-run handicraft boutiques and Tibetan stalls selling Himalayan curios and jewellery. The quality of the goods (mainly Rajasthani, Gujarati and Karnatakan textiles) is generally high, but visitors should haggle hard and without being afraid to walk away (the same stuff will crop up again and again). The Calangute beach is nothing special, but is more than large enough to accommodate the huge numbers of holiday visitors.

    Calangute Beach Calangute Beach Os Rupias

    Colva is the oldest and most heavily developed South Goan holiday resort. The town itself is dotted with colonial-style villas and ramshackle fishing huts, but the beachfront is crowded and blighted with unimaginative concrete hotels, snack bars and souvenir stalls. However, it is easy to steer clear of this central area as a spotless and relatively quiet beach is a few minutes' stroll away. Benaulim is only a 30-minute walk to the south, still on Colva beach, and attracts a more upmarket clientele, including British and Indian visitors on holiday. There are many luxury resorts along the coastal stretch, and brightly painted wooden fishing boats litter the beach.

    Fishermen on Colva Beach Fishermen on Colva Beach Valeria Bolotova

    For years Palolem remained a secret holiday getaway to all but the most independent traveller. Situated towards the southern tip of Goa, twenty miles south of Margao, it has now been discovered, though thankfully, due to strict urban planning restraints, tourism is kept in check. Palolem's crescent-shaped bay is lined with a beautiful white-sand beach and backed with groves of coconut palms. Either side of the bay is a rocky headland covered in thick black forest, and offshore there is a tiny island whose only permanent inhabitants are a colony of black-faced langur monkeys.

    Palolem Palolem Mikhail Esteves

    Phrase Book

    English Pronounciation

    Goa has a tropical climate, with hot, humid weather for most of the year. In summer the temperatures can reach as high as 91°F (33°C) and there are monsoon rains from June to September. Goa has a short winter, lasting only from December to February, with temperatures averaging around 77°F (25°C).

    The best time to visit Goa is during the cooler months between November and March, when the weather is warm, there is no rain, and the seas are calm and clear. The most popular time to visit Goa is over December and January, partly because the weather is ideal at this time, but also because Goa is renowned for its Christmas and New Year's celebrations. October, at the very start of the tourist season, is a good month to visit in if you want to avoid the worst of the crowds, but, although the beaches will be lovely and empty, many facilities will be closed and it'll be harder to find open restaurants and shops. March or early April are also good times to arrive, as it isn't quite as busy and not yet very hot.

    Dabolim Goa International Airport
    Location: The airport is located 18 miles (about 29km) southwest of Panaji
    Time: Local time is GMT +5.5.
    Transfer Between Terminals: There are two terminals adjacent to each other, which travellers can get between on foot.
    Getting to the city: The airport has a train station 1km from the terminals. The Indian Rail line goes to Margoa, about 45 minutes away, as well as to Vasco da Gama, about 2 miles (4km) from the airport. Public buses leave from just outside the airport terminal; pre-paid taxis are available outside the terminal building.
    Car Rental: Travellers who hire a car at the airport should also hire a driver, as local driving conditions can be challenging.
    Airport Taxis: Taxis are available outside the arrivals area.
    Facilities: Currency exchange services are available, though travellers might find better rates elsewhere. Complimentary luggage trolleys are present throughout the airport and a baggage-wrapping machine is located in international departures. There is a first aid centre, as well as an information desk with details on local tourism and transport options. Shopping and dining choices are very limited.
    Parking Parking is available at the airport.

    Flaunting its strong Portuguese heritage, Goa is definitely the nightlife hub of India. Goa still retains a laid-back hippie atmosphere in many areas and impulsive beach parties are a common occurrence, with visitors and locals relaxing on the beach after sunset with a couple of cold drinks and some mellow tunes. There are also numerous houses that have a room open to the public as a bar-cum-restaurant, usually serving great seafood.

    Goa hosts great rave and trance music parties, especially in winter under the full moon. The venues for these raves are kept secret till just hours before they kick off, and visitors will have to ask around at local bars for details. Goa is also developing fast as a resort centre and many hotels provide their own party venues. The most famous Goan party season is over New Year's Eve, when visitors flood onto the beaches to dance under the stars and enjoy fireworks and trance music in this beautiful setting. If visitors travel to Goa for a new year's party, they should be sure to book far in advance as it is very popular.

    Travellers should note that over the past few years, authorities have been cracking down on the Goan party scene, closing numerous bars and passing new liquor laws. Much fun can still be had in the state, but it is a good idea to get familiar with the laws before travelling, as state legislature is somewhat up in the air at the moment.

    There's great shopping to be done in Goa, with the most popular shopping spots being in Panaji and Anjuna. The quintessential Goan souvenirs are azulejos, Portuguese-style tiles and ceramics that have been beautifully hand-painted, but there is a huge selection of fine and funky goods in the markets, and it is easy to see that Goa still caters to the hippie crowd when exploring the shops. Sometimes the outdoor markets have a carnival atmosphere, with musicians and entertainers performing around the stalls. Tourists will be expected to bargain in the Goan markets; a good rule of thumb is to try and barter the price down to half of the original. Visitors should remember that most goods will be offered by multiple stalls, so they shouldn't be scared to walk away and compare prices.

    The Anjuna Wednesday market has everything from trendy rave gear to comfy hammocks; while semi-precious stones, paintings and local crafts are available from the Ingoe and Mackie night bazaars. The Mapusa Friday Market is good for freshly baked Goan breads, homemade pork sausages and an assortment of pickles.

    In Calangute, the Casa Goa boutique offers local designer wear, artwork and silk drapes, and tribal art is available from the nearby Leela Art Palace. Travellers can visit Sangolda for rattan loungers and Rajasthani chests. There are also stunning lampshades available at Soto Décor.

    A wide variety of transport is available in Goa. Most tourist sights can be accessed by road and there are buses, rental cars, taxis and scooters available for travellers to use. The best (and the most fun) way to get around Goa is to hire a motorcycle/scooter, but be sure to carry the necessary paperwork (licence, registration and insurance) because checks on foreigners are a lucrative source of 'baksheesh' for the Indian police force. Roads and attractions are not well sign-posted, so don't hesitate to ask for directions. Note that accident and fatality rates on Goan roads have been high in the past, so it pays to be cautious. Local buses stop at the main beaches.

    Auto-rickshaws are also a popular transportation option, and are available in town and from the airport, railway station and bus terminus. When taking taxis or rickshaws be sure to negotiate a fare before setting out to avoid being overcharged or having an argument. Goa is generally easy to get around and public transport is not expensive. As most visitors choose to stay near or on the beach front, limited transport is needed on a daily basis because restaurants, shops and attractions tend to be in walking distance.

    Goa boasts a number of great attractions for visitors to enjoy while on holiday. This area is of course famous for its gorgeous beaches, but there are also many splendid historical sites to visit in Old Goa, colonial architecture to explore in Margao and Panaji, and a vast flea market to browse in Anjuna. The Dudhsagar Waterfall and Dr Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary are also popular Goa attractions.

    There are many stunning beaches in Goa: Anjuna Beach was once the famous hippie hangout but this beautiful stretch of palm-lined sand has become popular with tourists of all kinds; Baga Beach is great for swimming and a little less crowded than Anjuna, though no less picturesque; Calangute Beach is the busiest and the most commercial, and although it is not as lovely as some of the others aesthetically, visitors enjoy exploring the beach bars, restaurants and shops; Colva Beach is a developed resort area and somewhat blighted by all the hawkers, hotels and hangers-on, but visitors who walk just a little way can still find beauty and peace along this stretch; Palolem Beach, in the south, is the most unspoiled and natural of Goa's popular beaches, and has retained its laid-back and secluded charm.

    Although still known as India's party paradise, Goa is a wonderful, relaxing destination to visit with kids on holiday. Children will love the variety of things to see and do, be it renting a bike to explore the local area, catching a boat for some swimming and dolphin watching, or simply enjoying the beaches. Visitors should note, however, that although some hotels or guesthouses may offer childcare services, and this may be tempting, it is strongly advised that they keep their children with them at all times while in a foreign country.


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