Thessaloniki travel guide

Thessaloniki Archaeological Museum

The Thessaloniki Archaeological Museum is regarded as one of the finest museums in Europe; it is near the famous White Tower and opposite the city's international fairgrounds. The museum houses a huge collection including the incredible treasures from the tomb of Alexander the Great's father, Phillip of Macedon, which was discovered at Vergina in 1977. Another treasured artefact is the 3rd century BC Derveni papyrus, the only intact ancient papyrus found in Greece, which was discovered in the tombs of Derveni. Other rooms in the museum contain exhibits depicting the history of the city from prehistoric days through to the Roman period, including spectacular mosaics and some exquisite, delicate Hellenistic glass. The museum will occupy visitors for a few hours if they are interested in history and archaeology and it is a well-organised and impressively laid out collection. Thessaloniki has a captivating history and it rewards investigation.

Roman Forum

Close to one of the city's main bus terminals in Dikasterion Square lies the archaeological site of the ancient Greek agora or marketplace, which was later expanded to become a Roman Forum on two levels. The Roman Forum was constructed in the late 2nd century AD and it constituted the administrative centre of the town till about the 5th century. The forum was the heart of the ancient city, and was discovered by workmen in the 1960s. The best-preserved component of the forum is the large theatre, which is still used for occasional summer concerts. On the southwest corner of the square is the magnificent church of Panagia Chalkeon. The Archaeological Museum built beneath the ruins houses some of the artefacts discovered in excavations on the site and a visit to the museum gives great context for exploring the site. It is small but captivating. Entry to the ruins is free but there are no written explanations, making the museum a necessary stop. The site is closed on Mondays. The area around the excavations is full of artists, shops and taverns and there are some wonderful little places to buy traditional wares and souvenirs.

The White Tower

The city of Thessaloniki's most famous landmark, the White Tower, was originally built as part of the city walls to fortify the coast during Ottoman rule. It now stands, no longer quite white but still very imposing, on the seaside promenade south of the Archaeological Museum, having been restored and offering panoramic views of the city and harbour from its rooftop café. Although now a proud landmark of the city, and the chosen symbol of its residents, the tower has a bloody history. It was used by the Ottomans as a prison, infamous for its brutality, and was the site for public executions; on the way up the winding staircase to the cafe visitors can peep into the dim rooms that were once used as cells. As a result of this notoriety as a brutal place it was known as the 'Tower of Blood' or the 'Red Tower' to local Greeks up until the end of the 19th century. When Thessaloniki was reclaimed by the Greeks the tower was whitewashed as a gesture of symbolic cleansing and it has since been re-imagined in the collective imagination as a positive symbol of freedom and pride. The tower contains a museum housing some Byzantine art and historical artefacts from Thessaloniki's history between 300 and 1,500 AD.

Churches of Thessaloniki

Most of Thessaloniki's beautiful churches are situated along the quaint, narrow-cobbled streets of the Upper City area. They date from various eras, including Byzantine.

In particular, visitors should look out for the domed Church of Saint George. Its history goes back to the 4th century, when it was Roman Emperor Galerius' mausoleum. Agia Sofia is Thessaloniki's largest and most famous Byzantine church. The Agii Apostoli and the beautifully frescoed Agios Nikolaos Orfanos are also must-sees.

Thessaloniki's churches are open to visitors, but often close during the afternoon. For this reason, visitors should try to tour them in the morning. Also, sightseers should follow local custom when entering. Essentially, this means to dress appropriately and to act respectfully in these sacred places. Visitors should ask permission before taking photographs. Some churches will not admit sightseers during services but tourists are always welcome to attend.