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  • Chilean Patagonia

    Chilean Patagonia travel guide

    Overview

    The fjords, glaciers and magnificent scenery of the Patagonian region are what attract visitors to this vast wilderness territory. The north, or Aisén region, can be likened to the Inside Passage of Alaska or New Zealand's Fjordland on South Island with its dramatic ice and waterway scenery. Southern Patagonia or Magallanes, is rugged, mountainous and stormy.

    It was nearly 500 years ago that Ferdinand Magellan guided four ships through the treacherous passages that are still today thought of as the 'End of the World'. Today Patagonia is inhabited by nearly two million people, but the majority of these live on the Argentinian side and even there, the region is still almost entirely dominated by pristine nature.

    The gravel highway known as the Camino Austral allows travellers access to one of the world's last great expanses of wilderness. It begins at the port of Chaitén and continues to the capital of northern Patagonia, Coihaique, both of which are good bases for explorations of Chilean Patagonia. The most popular attraction in this region, despite the difficulty and expense of getting here, is the two million-hectare (four million-acre), glacier-filled Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael, which has some of the world's most spectacular mountain and fjord scenery.

    Magallanes features glacially sculpted mountains and harsh landscapes with Torres del Paine National Park the most famous of the southern region's protected areas. Even further south is the town of Puerto Natales, terminus of the extraordinary ferry trip through the fjords from Puerto Montt, and the main exploration base for the region. Beyond the continent lies the harsh and stormy archipelago of Tierra del Fuego, stretching towards icy Antarctica.

    Parque Nacional Torres del Paine

    A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, this 180,000-hectare (442-acre) park is the pride and joy of southern Chile. The park takes its name from the towering granite pillars that rise over 6,560 feet (2,000m) above the Patagonian plains. It is a hiker's paradise with many excellent, well-developed trails that traverse astounding changes in scenery. The hikes consist of several circuits which vary in length and difficulty; there are very competent and informative guides available, but unaccompanied hikes are also allowed. This amazing freedom is part of the appeal of the wilderness area for adventurers. Turquoise lakes and roaring waterfalls, forests and magnificent rambling glaciers, icy rivers, daisy-filled meadows, harsh mountain passes and plenty of wildlife, including the protected guanaco (wild relative of the llama), are some of its attractions.

    Visitors can also try their hand at outdoor activities like horseback riding, sailing and kayaking, rock climbing and fly-fishing. Two famous areas within the park are the French Valley and Silence Valley (only accessible with a guide). The sunrise hike to the towers that give the park its name is also highly recommended. For many people the world over the Parque Nacional Torres del Paine features prominently on their bucket list, and for very good reason.

    Parque Nacional Torres del Paine Parque Nacional Torres del Paine Miguel Vieira
    Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael

    Created in 1959, Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael covers an area of 6,726 square miles (17,420 sq km) and includes the Northern Patagonian Ice Field. It was named after the San Rafael Lagoon that was created by the retreat of the San Rafael Glacier, and has been designated a World Biosphere Reserve by UNESCO. A fjord more than 10 miles (16km) long is one of the park's principle attractions, along with some of the highest peaks in Patagonia, several glaciers, lakes and a rich variety of bird and sea life.

    While the majority of visitors to Laguna San Rafael never set foot on land, the magnificent views from the boat will no doubt stay with them for a lifetime. If you take one of the larger boat trips to see the famous glaciers in the park you will almost certainly be given the opportunity to approach the ice flow in smaller boats and get up close to the glacier. For the really adventurous there are also multi-day sea kayaking tours of the area. Most visitors describe the trip as a once-in-a-lifetime, unforgettable experience and it is not hard to see why when looking at photos of the landscape. The glaciers are melting, making this attraction even more poignant and special; in a few years' time the landscape may be very different.

    San Rafael Lagoon San Rafael Lagoon Vincent Huang
    Chilean Tierra del Fuego

    In the farthest southern reaches of Patagonia, at the tip of South America, lies the archipelago of Tierra del Fuego, which translates to 'Land of Fire'. It is a dramatic name for a dramatic place, as the harsh winds of the sub-polar climate sweep over rocky mountains, sparse tundra, and hardy forests. Tierra del Fuego is an increasingly popular eco-travel destination, and adventurous travellers come to see wildlife that includes sea lions, foxes, condors, owls, and firecrown hummingbirds. Hiking and camping are popular activities, and the archipelago offers some of the best trout fishing in South America.

    While the savage natural beauty of the area is the main attraction for travellers there is also more traditional touristic sightseeing on offer: much of the tourism in Tierra del Fuego revolves around 'southernmost' things. The port town of Puerto Williams claims to be the southernmost city in the world, while the southernmost cathedral and temple are located in Punta Arenas. While Cape Horn is widely thought to be the southernmost island in South America, that title actually goes to The Diego Ramírez Islands, which are nesting grounds for many species of southern seabirds, including albatross, penguins and petrels. Travellers with a sense of adventure looking to get off the beaten track will find Tierra del Fuego to be quite a revelation.

    Chilean Tierra del Fuego Chilean Tierra del Fuego Luis Alejandro Bernal Romero
    Magdalena Island Penguin Reserve

    The Magdalena Island Penguin Reserve is a paradise for birdwatchers, or for anybody who is fond of penguins. Magdalena Island is located 21.7 miles (35km) south of Punta Arenas. The reserve is a natural bird sanctuary, and is home to more than 100,000 birds, including about 95 percent of the world's population of Magellanic Penguins as well as cormorants and seagulls.

    Because it is a sanctuary, the only facilities on Magdalena Island are for scientific research and not tourism. Guided tours are available to see the penguins in their natural habitat, and the lighthouse at the Environmental Interpretation Centre provides stunning panoramic views of the region. There are ferries available from Puntas Arenas, which take approximately two hours each way and provide snacks and coffee. These ferry rides are in themselves thrilling in that to reach Magdalena Island the boat crosses the famous Straits of Magellan, traversing the same waters as Sir Francis Drake and Charles Darwin.

    Generally, visitors are allowed about an hour on the island to observe the penguins in their natural habitat. The birds are naturally curious and very amusing to watch. They return every year between October and March to lay their eggs and raise their young - if you are lucky you may well see chicks.

    Magdalena Island Penguin Reserve Magdalena Island Penguin Reserve Rachel Hobday

    Phrase Book

    English Pronounciation

    Chilean Patagonia experiences less severe weather conditions than one might think, with the east featuring a slightly warmer climate than the west. Temperatures vary greatly depending on where exactly you are. In the extreme south of Chilean Patagonia the weather is moderated by its proximity to the ocean and only slight seasonal variety is experienced. The months of April and May are the wettest, with reliable snowfall from June through September. The depletion of the ozone layer over the South Pole is a growing concern and is thought to be the reason for an increase in blindness and skin cancer in sheep in Tierra del Fuego. Travellers visiting Chilean Patagonia are therefore advised to bring plenty of sunscreen, regardless of the time of year, and to apply it liberally even if it doesn't feel hot. As it is often wet and windy, it is also a good idea to come prepared with waterproof gear no matter what the season.

    The overwhelming consensus is that the best time of year to visit Patagonia is in the warmer summer months, between December and February, when average temperatures range comfortably between 50°F (10°C) and 64°F (18°C) in northern Patagonia.

    Useful Contacts:

    Chilean Patagonia boasts some of the most astoundingly beautiful and diverse wilderness areas in the world and vast swathes of this adventurer's paradise remain unspoiled and unpopulated. It is therefore no surprise that the majority of things to see and do in Chilean Patagonia revolve around natural wonders and outdoor activities. The dramatic scenery includes glaciers, lakes, rivers, mountains and volcanoes; enough natural splendour to keep visitors occupied for months.

    The Parque Nacional Laguna San Rafael and The Parque Nacional Torres Del Paine are both UNESCO Biosphere Reserves and are open to the public. They offer a number of hiking trails, of varying lengths and difficulties, which constitute a popular way to explore these special areas. San Rafael includes the Northern Patagonian Ice Field and the mammoth glaciers to be found here are one of the most popular attractions in Chilean Patagonia. Torres Del Paine is a magnificent reserve with towering granite mountains and crystal-clear lakes. Pumalin Park, in northern Patagonia, is also a favourite with travellers for its fjords and rainforest.

    The Magdalena Island Penguin Reserve is a birdwatcher's dream and worth a visit for anyone keen on these comical birds. Your ferry trip to get there will take you into the Straits of Magellan, which is special in itself. If you are interested in the explorers, like Magellan, who first ventured into this area, it is worth visiting the Nao Victoria Museo, which displays a full-size model of the ship Magellan used, among others, and provides intriguing historical lessons about life on-board. The museum is in Punta Arenas and has received acclaim in recent years.

    Chilean Patagonia is full of attractions, particularly for the intrepid traveller keen to kayak, hike and climb. The amount of wilderness to explore actually leaves visitors spoiled for choice. Travellers should be aware that outside of the main travel hubs amenities are extremely limited in Chilean Patagonia and getting around can prove tricky. Many visitors travel by plane or ship and others resort to renting vehicles due to the lack of reliable public transport. The further south you want to go, the more difficult it becomes, but it is worth it.

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