East and west fuse together perfectly in Turkey's capital of
Ankara, where shades of the mystical east and ancient civilisations
lie partially hidden among office buildings, shopping malls, and
government offices. The city is imbued with the spirit of modernity
and youth: a student town filled with language schools,
universities, and colleges. It also has a vast ex-pat community
(most of it diplomatic), which adds to the cosmopolitan
atmosphere.
Situated on a rocky hill in the dry, barren region of Anatolia,
this humming city can trace its history back to the bronze age, and
has been a part of historic events through several great
civilisations, including those of the Phrygians, Lydians, Persians,
Greeks, Romans, Galatians, and Ottomans. Alexander the Great was
one of the conquerors who stayed in the city for a while, and
today's tourists are spoilt for choice when it comes to unearthing
the city's historic attractions.
With a population of well over four million, Ankara is a
deserving capital city, aptly described as the 'anchor' of Turkey.
While it is perhaps not always sought after by tourists it is
certainly entertaining and hosts many business travellers and those
seriously intrigued with ancient history. The old heart of the
city, Ulus, is centred on an ancient citadel on a hilltop, where
many historic buildings have been restored. Many of these buildings
have been turned into restaurants served traditional Turkish
cuisine. In this area there are several Roman archaeological sites,
and narrow alleys shelter shops selling eastern delights like
leather, carpets, copper, spices, and jewellery.
From the old city outwards, the buildings spread across various
hills in carefully planned fashion. This planning was undertaken by
European urban planners when revolutionary-turned-statesman,
Mustafa Ataturk, set up provisional government in a small dusty
town in 1920, just after the first World War. Ataturk is buried in
a grand mausoleum called Anitkabir, in a green 'peace' park which
is open to visitors.