Seville Cathedral
Seville Cathedral is the third-largest church in the
world, behind St Peter's in Rome and St Paul's in London. This
massive Gothic edifice took more than a century to build, after a
group of religious fanatics decided in 1401 to build a church so
wonderful that 'those who come after us will take us for madmen'.
The cathedral was built on the site of the Almohad Mosque,
demolished to make way for its construction. Known as La Giralda,
the mosque was originally built in 1198 of which only a minaret
remains. Today it's open to tourists. Along with the Alcazar and
the Archivo de Indias, the cathedral has been declared a UNESCO
World Heritage Site and is undoubtedly one of the highlights of a
visit to Seville. The interior of the cathedral contains some
marvellous sights in its 44 chapels. It is claimed that the remains
of Christopher Columbus are here in a tomb dedicated to him, but
there is some controversy over this. Artworks to be seen include
gilded panels, glittering icons, and intricately carved altar
pieces. The cathedral is imposing and quite overwhelming in its
scope, but the intricate detail is also incredible.
Address:
Avenida de la Constitucion.
Opening time:
Monday 11am to 3.30pm, Tuesday to Saturday 11am to
5pm, Sunday 2.30pm to 6.30pm (September to June); Monday 9.30am to
2.30pm, Tuesday to Saturday 9.30am to 4.30pm, Sunday 2.30pm to
6.30pm (July and August).
Seville Cathedral
Spanish National Tourist Board
Alcazar of Seville
Alcazar is Seville's top attraction and one of the
most famous in Spain. The complex is a UNESCO World Heritage Site
and an undisputed architectural masterpiece. The site of Seville's
Moorish palace has been occupied by the city's rulers since Roman
times, and has been a favoured residence of Spanish kings since the
Middle Ages. Established by the Moors as early as the 7th century,
it was primarily built in the 1300s and has been added to and
altered by successive occupants ever since. Of the early Christian
additions, most notable is the colonnaded quadrangle of the Patio
of the Maids. The palace is set in beautiful, extensive gardens
where it is possible to picnic if you bring your own food.
Otherwise, there is a small restaurant overlooking the gardens.
Visitors should allow several hours to explore this spectacular
palace complex.
Address:
Plaza del Triunfo
Transport:
The Alcazar is best reached by foot from the city
centre.
Opening time:
Open daily 9.30am to 5pm (October to March) and
9.30am to 7pm (April to September).
Alcazar in Seville
Dubaduba
Santa Cruz
A former Jewish ghetto, Santa Cruz in Seville is an enchanting
maze of alleys, gateways, and courtyards. Every street corner has a
romantic legend attached to it, with windowsills festooned with
flowers and the fragrance of jasmine pervading the air. Santa Cruz
is also bordered by the Alcazar, the Jardines de Murillo, and Santa
Maria La Blanca, and can be reached via the Calle Rodrigo Caro.
Some of the sights to look for are the Hospital de los Venerables,
which contains Sevillian artworks; the beautiful mansions in the
Calle Lope de Rueda; the Convent de San Jose, which boasts relics
of Saint Teresa of Avila; and the Iglesia de Santa Maria la Blanca,
which features Murillo's 'Last Supper'. Apart from many notable
buildings, the neighbourhood is home to numerous quaint and quirky
shops, art galleries, artisan workshops, hotels, guest houses,
tapas bars, and restaurants, making it a tourists' paradise. Santa
Cruz is also a favourite haunt for locals, and the area is fun to
visit during the day and at night. Many walking tours of the
district are available and joining one makes for a good
introduction to Santa Cruz.
Saint Teresa of Avila
David.Monniaux
Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes de Sevilla
A restored convent dating back to 1612 houses one of
Spain's most important and largest art collections. Hidden in a
tiny plaza off Calle de Alfonso XII in Seville, the museum was
established in 1839. It houses art spanning from medieval times to
the 20th century, with the pride of the collection being the range
of paintings from the 17th century, Seville's Golden Age.
Highlights include the religious paintings of Seville's own Esteban
Murillo, but the collection also includes other Seville School
artists such as the macabre works of Juan de Vales Leal and
Francisco de Zurbaran. There are also two paintings by El Greco
among the exhibits. The museum has a surfeit of religious art,
which will delight some and bore others; it is probably not the
best attraction for children. The convent is an incredible housing
for the collection with frescoes and ornate vaulted ceilings, worth
exploring even if it were empty. On Sundays there is usually an art
market in the square outside the museum where local artists set up
stalls and sell their work. A must for art lovers, this gallery is
generally considered to have the second best collection of Spanish
art in the country.
Address:
9 Plaza del Museo.
Opening time:
Tuesday to Saturday 10am to 8.30pm, Sundays 10am to
5pm (16 September to 31 May); Tuesday to Saturday 9am to 3.30pm,
Sundays 10am to 5pm (1 June to 15 September). Closed
Mondays.
Esteban Murillo
Nicke L
Maria Luisa Park
Regarded as one of the loveliest parks in Europe,
this half-mile area in southern Seville near the port, is planted
with palms, orange trees, elms, and Mediterranean pines. Bright and
beautiful flower beds vie for the eye with hidden bowers, ponds,
pavilions, water features, and statues in this little paradise,
which was designed in the 1920s and thus reflects a mix of Art Deco
and Mudejar styling. The park was originally part of Seville's
World Expo, which brought a burst of creative architecture and
rejuvenation during the 1920s, and which included the redirection
of the Guadalquivir River and the construction of some opulent
buildings, like the stylish Guatemala building off the Paseo de la
Palmera. Also fronting the park is the city's archaeological
museum, focusing on the Romans and prehistory of the province of
Seville. Near the park is the Royal Tobacco Factory (today part of
the university), immortalised by the fictional operatic gypsy
heroine Carmen, who is said to have worked there. Many of the
buildings surrounding Maria Luisa Park are attractions in
themselves. The park is a pleasant refuge for relaxation and a
stroll, and a great place to have a picnic in Seville.
Oranges with blossoms
EugeneZelenko
Sherry Bodegas
Andalusia's chalky soil is ideal for the cultivation
of the palomino grape, from which the world-famous sherry (jerez)
of the region is made. The main sites of sherry production in
Andalusia are Jerez de la Frontera and Montilla, and these charming
towns are home to plenty of self-proclaimed sherry connoisseurs,
who will debate the quality of the sweet amber-coloured blends with
the seriousness usually reserved for appraising the finest French
wines. An increasingly popular tourist activity for visitors to
southern Spain is to tour the bodegas of the region, wineries with
a history dating back to Roman times, which specialise in the
fermentation of palomino grapes and the production of sherry.
Tasting tours of these bodegas are fun and informative, and can be
combined with other great cultural attractions, such as checking
out a flamenco dance performance, or admiring beautiful Andalusian
horses at a dressage event. A bottle of Andalusian sherry also
makes for a great Spanish souvenir for friends and family back
home. Many tour operators offer day trips to the bodegas but it is
also easy to explore without a guide.
Seville has a mild Mediterranean climate, with warm,
sunny summers and cool, mild, winters. The hottest months are July
and August, with temperatures sometimes reaching a high of 99°F
(37°C). Temperatures are, however, sometimes modified by cool sea
breezes - a relief at the height of summer.
Winter tends to have mixed sun and cloud and January
is the coldest month. Autumn and winter are the wettest seasons,
and September and October often bring heavy showers or
thunderstorms. March, which is early spring, can also be a wet
month, but showers are usually followed by sunny periods. Seville
receives hardly any rain during the hot summer months.
As with most of Spain, the height of summer, between
June and August, is when most people choose to travel to Seville
for the hot sunshine, tempered by cool sea breezes. Other people
argue that the best time to holiday in Seville is spring, when
temperatures are moderate and the crowds are thinner.
With its Mediterranean climate, however, Seville is a
destination for all seasons, so long as you don't mind a few wet
days during winter. Easter is a great time to go if you are looking
for festivity, because Holy Week brings all sorts of fiestas to the
city streets.
Eating out in Seville is approached with the same
laidback simplicity that characterises the city's approach to life
in general. Dishes are uncomplicated and honest, and ingredients
are fresh, flavourful, and tasty.
Like the architectural and historical roots of the
Andalusian region, cuisine in Seville is a mix of Mediterranean and
Moorish traditions. Main ingredients include olive oil, garlic and
wine; but a strong Muslim influence has also infused recipes with a
handful of mint, a pinch of spice or fragrant citrus, and almond
elements.
Many visitors are surprised to learn that the city
lays claim to Spain's most well-known culinary legacy - tapas.
These small, bite-sized portions make for light and delicious
meals, and cater perfectly to a culture that believes
whole-heartedly in the value of good conversation.
Though tapas used to be complimentary alongside a nip
of sherry or a glass of wine, these days visitors will be
hard-pressed to find a restaurant simply 'giving away' the
traditional side of jamon (cured ham) or the odd bowl of acietunas
(olives). Still, sampling one of the 4,000 odd tapas bars in
Seville is a must; or, if you're in the mood for something more
substantial, the city has an assortment of impressive restaurants
suitable for a variety of budgets.
Over lunchtime ask about the menu del dia (menu of
the day); this normally includes a choice of soup or salad, a main
course, and a dessert, and often proves a delicious and economic
way to make your way through Seville. Keep in mind that the Spanish
eat late: most restaurants only open at 8pm; though the locals will
filter in between 9pm and 11pm.
El Rinconcillo
Moorish brickwork, a handsome mahogany bar and a ceiling that
dates back to the seventeenth century give El Rinconcillo the kind
of old-world charm that other restaurants merely aspire to. As one
of the most famous tapas bars in the city, the venue not only
claims a rich history, but also remains true to its Andalusian
roots and the accompanying relaxed regional demeanour. Visitors can
enjoy a full meal or a few light tapas portions. Open daily 1pm to
1.30am.
Address: C/Gerona 40 y Alhondigo 2
Restaurante San Marco
Styled to appear as a 12th-century Arab bath house, the lively
atmosphere and delicious Italian cuisine make this a favourite
among both locals and tourists. This particular venue is tucked
away among the winding alleyways of Barrio Santa Cruz, but three
other options - each uniquely designed - appear in different areas
of the city. Reservations are crucial. Dinner is served from 8pm
until midnight.
Address: Calle Meson del Moro
Egana Oriza
Situated in a bright and airy mansion dating back to 1926, this
stylish space allows guests the opportunity to dine in the
equivalent of a contemporary indoor garden. The restaurant was once
credited with a Michelin star, though nowadays, tapas and drinks
are just as much an occasion as haute cuisine. Visitors can look
forward to a fantastic wine list and very knowledgeable sommelier.
Closed Sundays. Lunch is served 1:30pm to 4pm; dinner from 8:30pm
to midnight.
Address: San Fernando 41
Barbiana
Seafood specialities have buoyed Barbiana to regular appearances
on any of Seville's top restaurant listings. Though the city is
inland, the chefs go out of their way to source a fresh selection
of succulent shrimp, squid, sea bass and white fish all the way
from the coastal town of Cadiz. The restaurant is set in the heart
of Seville, adjacent to the Plaza Neuve. Those pressed for time can
enjoy an abbreviated version of the menu at the tapas bar in
front.
Address: Calle Albaredo 11
Az-Zait
Classically Mediterranean and reasonably priced, Az-Zait is your
affordable answer to lunch and dinner. Set next to the Convent of
San Lorenzo, the restaurant is comfortable, the service good and
the cuisine reliable. The menu offers both Andalusian favourites
(gazpacho) and more inventive options, like the honey-glazed
cuttlefish. There is also a tasting menu available. Lunch is served
from 11am to 4:30pm, and dinner from 8pm to 12:30am.
Address: Plaza San Lorenzo 1
Jerez Airport
Location: 5 miles (8km) northeast of Jerez de la
Frontera
Time: GMT +1 (GMT +2 between March and
October).
Getting to the city:
There is regular bus service to Jerez, Cadiz, El Puerto de Santa
Maria, Costa Ballena and Chipiona from Jerez Airport.
Car Rental:
AurigaCrown, Avis, Europcar, Goldcar and Hertz operate car hire
facilities at Jerez Airport.
Airport Taxis:
There are metered taxis available outside the terminal.
Facilities:
The terminal contains duty-free shopping, restaurants, a bank,
VIP lounge, first aid station and information desk.
Parking
There are short and long-term parking facilities at Jerez
Airport.
San Pablo Airport
Location: The airport is 6 miles (10km) from Seville.
Time: GMT +1
Getting to the city:
A bus runs from the airport to Seville every 30 minutes. It
stops at Puerta de Jerez, Palos de la Frontera, Pedro de Castro,
Enramadilla, Avenida San Francisco Javier, Luis de Morales, and
Avenida Kansas City (next to Santa Justa station). It takes up to
an hour to do the trip as there is often heavy traffic.
Car Rental:
Rental companies operating at San Pablo Airport include Atesa,
Avis, Crown Car Hire, Europcar and Hertz. Rental desks are in the
arrivals area and an international drivers permit is required.
Airport Taxis:
Taxis are the fastest way to get into town and there are metred
taxis available outside the airport. The journey takes about 25
minutes.
Facilities:
Bank, ATMs, currency exchange facilities, lost property offices,
VIP lounges, restaurants, shops and kiosks, wifi, chemist, first
aid and facilities for disabled passengers are all available at the
airport.
Parking
Parking charges at Seville Airport range from €1.50 per hour to
€14.40 per day ( for up to four days), and then €11.45 per day from
day five onwards.
Seville may be pegged as the slightly sleepy southern
cousin of Madrid and Barcelona, but there is still a decent local
nightlife. Between the bohemian tastes of the university students
and the affinity for the arts held by the more sophisticated
Sevillianos, there is a wide assortment of Andalusian activities
after dark.
A great way to start your evening is by blazing a
tapas trail. A wide selection of dingy dives and smoother, more
stylish spaces crowd around the cobblestone streets of Barrio Santa
Cruz and the area around the Catedral de Seville. Simply look for
the iconic leg of jamon (cured ham) hanging from the ceiling and
pop in for a quick bite, an easy chat, and a cold Cruzcampo
(Seville's local beer).
When you can't stomach any more sample-sized
portions, head to either Plaza Alfalfa or Calle Betis for a bit of
bar-hopping. During Seville's sultry summer nights, sipping a
sherry alongside the Guadalquivir River is also an intoxicating way
to kick-off the evening.
Most Seviallanos only leave home around 11.30pm, at
which point they start the night with a stiff drink and a shot.
Partygoers drain their drinks and head to the nightclubs around
1am, where it is possible to party until 10am the next morning.
For those with a calmer, more cultural appetite, the
nightlife in Seville can be just as satiating. Flamenco, a
passionate mix of dance, music, and singing with roots reaching
into Andalusia's Roma (gypsy) communities, is a firm favourite and
must-see in the city.
There are plenty of venues with regular tablao
(performances); the Triana district caters to locals while options
in Santa Cruz are more tourist-friendly, often offering a
traditional Andalusian meal alongside the performance. Visit the
central tourist bureau to schedule a slot for yourself and your
family.
For those who would rather forego Flamenco, Seville's
opera house, Teatro de la Maestranza, attracts iconic celebrities
and features big-name shows. Occasionally jazz and classical
concerts also take place.
Most of the tourist sights in Seville are in the
central area, which is flat and best explored on foot. Those
travelling further afield will find buses the easiest and most
economical way of getting around. Bus stops are easy to find on the
main avenues and run on circular routes around the city, and line
routes in all directions out of it. Bus routes emanate from Plaza
Nueva, Plaza de la Encarnacion, La Barqueta, and Prado de San
Sebastian.
Taxis can be found at designated stands in all the
main plazas, or can be hailed on the street if showing a green
light, which means they are available. Tourists should always
ensure that the meters in taxis are operational and that they are
only turned on at the beginning of their trip as foreigners are
sometimes the victims of overcharging.
As with all Spanish cities, it is best to avoid
driving in Seville as the roads are confusing and hard to
negotiate. Spanish drivers are renowned for their casual and
chaotic approach to rules of the road, and although rented cars are
wonderful for excursions out of Seville, they are best kept parked
at the hotel while sightseeing in the city. Those exploring the
city on foot should be sure to get a map when wandering around
neighbourhoods like Santa Cruz, as the narrow maze of streets can
be rather confusing.
Wandering the narrow maze of Santa Cruz, Seville's most romantic
neighbourhood - balconies, flowers and stately mansions - is one of
the best tourist experiences in Spain, and can occupy visitors for
days, with courtyard cafes, bars and restaurants to rest at
whenever the charming labyrinth becomes overwhelming. Seville is a
city best explored on foot, and Santa Cruz is one of the districts
where tourists can tap into the soul of this special Spanish
destination.
Other famous Seville attractions include the enormous Seville
Cathedral, one of the biggest Gothic churches in the world; the
recently renovated Plaza de Espana, the stately square constructed
in 1929; and the Maria Luisa Park, one of the loveliest green lungs
in Europe. However, the city's most famous attraction is the
UNESCO-listed Alcazar of Seville, an ancient palace complex
considered one of Spain's great treasures. Visitors to Seville
should also be sure to take in a cultural performance as the city
is alive with authentic Spanish music and Flamenco.
Additionally, there are several wonderful performing arts
venues, including the Casa de la Memoria de Al-Andalus and La Casa
del Flamenco Auditorio Alcantara. Good museums in Seville include
the Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes de Sevilla (Museum of Fine
Arts).