Karaouine Mosque
The al-Karaouine Mosque, located in the heart of the Fes El Bali
(Medina), was founded in 859 with an associated madrassa (school)
that subsequently grew to become one of the leading educational and
spiritual centres in the Islamic world and is now called the
University of al-Karaouine and incorporated into the modern
university system of the country. According to UNESCO it is the
oldest continually operating educational institution in the
world.
The mosque itself is enormous (one of the largest in Morocco)
and beautiful, although austere, with many striking features. It is
considered the most sacred mosque in the country and the timing of
Islamic festivals across Morocco are determined here. Unfortunately
for tourists non-Muslims may not enter it, but often the doors
stand open and it is certainly worth taking a peek inside to get a
sense of the place. The mosque is still surrounded by numerous
madrasas, many of which are open to the public, and these are
certainly worth exploring. The most famous of these is the Attarin
Madrasa, built in the early 14th century, which features a
beautiful bronze door and elegant courtyard with some impressive
marble, alabaster and cedar wood decoration.
Karaouine Mosque, Fez
Khonsali
Meknes
Meknes, located just 37 miles (60km) from Fez, is the
least-visited of Morocco's Imperial Cities, and this is exactly
what draws discerning travellers to discover its considerable
charms. A city brimming with history but mercifully short on chaos,
Meknes is the ideal destination for those looking to explore
Morocco's rich, imperial past at a reasonable and measured
pace.
The city of Meknes was the brainchild of Moulay Ismail (ruler of
Morocco for an incredible 55 years, between 1672 and 1727), who
sought to construct a city fine enough to rival any in Europe.
Although not the most sympathetic of rulers - most of the
construction was done by Christian slaves who were kidnapped by
Moroccan pirates from as far afield as Iceland - Ismail's vision
was impressively followed through, and modern-day visitors to
Meknes can revel in the wonders of more than 50 palaces, 20
beautifully-carved gates, and a city wall that stretches for 28
miles (45km).
The city of Meknes has a wonderfully preserved medina area and a
collection of great souks which can be navigated independently,
without the need for a tour guide. Must-see sights include Bab
Mansour, the grand gate of the imperial city, featuring splendid
mosaics; and Dar El Makhzen, the historical palace of Moulay
Ismail. Tourists to Morocco who want to experience its culture, but
are wary of the frenetic nature of its cities, are strongly advised
to make Meknes a feature of their travel itineraries.
Meknes, Morocco
Jerzy Strzelecki
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Fez has a basic public transport system, with trains, buses and
taxis, but ultimately it is a city best explored on foot by
tourists as the majority of the attractions are in the old quarter.
Visitors should beware that it is easy to get lost in the maze of
narrow streets that make up Fez's largest medina, one of the
world's largest car-free urban zones.
However, to aid visitors, the medina does have colour-coded
tourist routes, so it is best to use the accompanying tourist map
and ask for directions if lost. Additionally, tourists should note
that some locals have a reputation for misdirecting tourists,
particularly if they can redirect them into family-owned stores or
charge money to guide them along complicated routes instead of
giving simple directions.
In Fez, the
are small and red and operate between the Medina
walls and within the city limits. They tend to be metered and are
not too expensive, but only carry three passengers at a time.
are bigger and travel fixed routes from the
cities to the outlying areas. Both types of taxis are usually
shared and drivers often wait until the taxi is full before
departing. The train station is situated in the Ville Nouvelle (new
city) and operates a route to Tangier, among other
destinations.
When you travel to Fez, you not only travel to a busy Moroccan
city, but also travel 1,000 years back in time. The modern world
has barely intruded into the warren that makes up the medieval
medinas (old quarter) of this ancient city. In this old quarter
most of the city's main tourist attractions can be found.
There are several gates allowing entry to the ancient town of
Fez: Bab Bou Jeloud, the western gate, has bright decorations and
hotels and cafes grouped around it; Bab Er Rsif is the central
gate, opening onto the square in front of the mosque of the same
name; Bab el-Ftouh is the southeast gate giving onto the
cemeteries; and Bab Guissa, the north gate, lies on the hillside
close to the Merenid tombs vantage point. The principal entrance
for tourists is the Bab Bou Jeloud, which was constructed in the
modern era in 1913 but appears older because of its tiled
facade.
Anyone in love with tales of Aladdin, Ali Baba and the Arabian
Nights will be drawn to holiday in Fez, but the reality of the
sights, sounds and smells may come as a shock to visitors. However,
there is certainly beauty to be found. Travellers willing to plunge
into the sensory overload will be richly rewarded, but should emply
the services of a tour guide.
Karaouine Mosque, Fez
Khonsali
Meknes, Morocco
Jerzy Strzelecki
